Print a piece of racing history

Set up a clean area and a resin area

Keep the computer and clean tools away from the drip tray. Put dedicated wash containers and waste containers beside the resin work area. Prepare the curing station according to its manual.

Check the bottle’s identity, temperature range and GK3 compatibility. Wear the resin’s specified protective equipment, confirm ventilation and keep contaminated gloves away from keyboards and shared surfaces.

Choose the circuit and the amount of model

Open Racing circuits, use Circuit to find Spa-Francorchamps, then open Model. Choose Outline, 1 : 20,000 and a 3.0 mm circuit width.

Outline is the freestanding track. Relief adds an 8 mm base and an elevated ridge. Terrain adds the full sampled landscape. Both base styles are solid, and a large landscape can use substantially more resin.

At the same 1 : 20,000 scale with 1× elevation, the Spa examples calculate to about 4.2 mL for an outline, 80 mL for relief and 116 mL for terrain, without labels or optional details apart from start/finish. These are solid part volumes, not the amount to pour into the vat. Supports, raft, residue and waste add consumption.

For relief or terrain, use a rectangle to save footprint compared with a square or circle. Keep elevation modest and compare the rebuilt preview before downloading.

Make every visible detail intentional

Under Finish, select the material and color of the resin you will actually use. Standard, ABS-like and tough presets are alternatives for compatible bottles you have; the menu is not a stock list or a printer exposure profile.

Keep start/finish enabled for the starter. Pit lane, sector marks and corner numbers are physical features when enabled, but their positions are schematic. Leave them off if you want the geographic circuit shape without invented marker placement. Corner numbers and engraved labels require a base.

For a base model, keep the engraved label short and inspect the letters at the final size. Thin lettering and grooves need an exposure/detail test. The 3D and top views use the exported solid; resin color and sheen are estimates. Layer lines, support contacts, shrinkage, curing and paint can change the finished appearance.

Check the size, then export the current solid

GK3’s maximum build volume: 211 × 118 × 240 mm. Read the generator’s fit message. A quarter turn may be needed. If the bare model is too large, select Fit model to GK3; this changes the scale and rebuilds both the preview and export.

The fit message checks the bare bounding box. The tilted model, supports and raft must also fit in the slicer. This generator does not automatically split or hollow models. Choose a smaller scale or lighter style when the footprint or solid-volume estimate is too large.

Select Download model, then Print model · STL. Save Print settings · JSON as a record of your choices. The STL is a closed, single-material solid in millimeters, with the underside at Z=0. It includes selected grooves and engravings and has no supports or printer commands.

Ready when: the rebuilt model is current, the scale and dimensions are correct, and you have a manageable first print.

Import in millimeters with the exact GK3 profile

Open an operator-approved resin slicer and select the exact GK3 machine profile. Import the STL without automatic resizing. Compare its bounding dimensions with the generator’s dimensions; STL does not encode a unit label, so confirm millimeters.

Select the actual resin and layer-height profile. The generator’s material selector changes the visual estimate and saved settings; it does not calibrate exposure. Keep the slicer project so you can repeat the supported setup.

Orient and support the first-printing edge

Discuss orientation with an experienced operator. A gradual tilt can reduce the area released per layer for a broad base, but it also changes the footprint and height. An outline needs support around its loop and wherever a section first begins printing.

Place support contacts on the underside or less visible edge where possible. Support the first-printing edge, inspect disconnected islands and check the complete supported model against the build volume. Automatic supports are a starting point.

Do not silently hollow a broad terrain model to save resin: cavities and drain placement require another design check, and the resulting geometry would differ from this preview. Start smaller or switch style instead.

Calibrate, slice and run the job

Use a calibrated GK3 profile for the actual resin, layer height and working conditions. If the combination is new, print a small calibration/detail test first. Use the bottle and printer guidance for exposure, bottom layers, lift and rest settings; there is no universal circuit preset.

Slice the supported model and inspect the layer preview from raft to last layer. Use the slicer’s island/risk check where available, correct unsupported features, then slice again. CHITUBOX documents risk detection.

Export the printer-ready file required by the GK3 profile. Follow the printer manual to inspect the vat film, screen and plate, remove cured debris, secure the plate and vat, mix the resin and fill within the specified limits. Verify the transferred file and start the print. After a failure, clean out cured fragments before restarting.

Remove the part and wash with the right process

Follow the printer’s removal procedure, keep drips in the tray and handle the uncured part with resin-appropriate gloves. Use the washing method on the actual bottle. For a water-washable resin that specifies water, use dedicated wash and rinse containers with a gentle brush where needed.

A curing station does not establish which wash liquid or machine is suitable. Do not assume an ultrasonic cleaner can use your resin or liquid: check its manual and the resin instructions. UniFormation’s wash/cure FAQ describes its particular equipment; it is not a specification for an unspecified cleaner.

Collect contaminated liquid, wipes and supports. Remove supports at the stage allowed by the resin instructions, supporting the thin circuit while clipping so you do not snap a long section.

Dry the grooves completely, then post-cure

Inspect lettering, marker grooves and the underside for remaining resin. Wash again where needed, then dry the entire piece fully. Keep uncured parts in the controlled resin area.

Post-cure using the actual resin’s specified UV conditions and the curing-station manual. Expose all sides, including the underside. Use the manufacturer’s procedure rather than judging completion from surface feel alone. There is no universal wash or cure time.

Finish the surface and choose a display

Once fully cured, inspect the loop, grooves and base. Smooth support marks carefully with the resin’s dust and protective measures. Test any compatible primer, paint or glue on a spare piece.

Brush paint works for a small object. An airbrush can apply thin coats in a suitable extracted painting area. Paint changes the color and sheen from the resin preview and can fill shallow engravings. Let coatings dry according to their instructions.

A relief or terrain model has its own base. A freestanding outline can sit on a separately made display board; dry-fit and test a compatible adhesive. The SVG below can help make a flat companion piece.

Finished: a cleaned and fully cured circuit model with its thin sections intact and support marks addressed.